Stillwater
Cove
Every now and then Monterey's dive boats take a poll of their passengers and ask them to name their favorite dive site. The overwhelming response is Stillwater Cove. The cove is aptly named since it is very protected from that pesky California phenomena, the northwest swell by Pescadero Point. It also has a superb collection of marine life.
The prominent feature of Stillwater Cove is the mass of rocks in the center of the cove. Known as Pescadero Rocks, most divers concentrate their activities around the rocks and in the reef directly south of the rocks. Offshore, the bottom is mostly sand, sprinkled with a rocky patch reef. As the water becomes shallower the bottom becomes more rocky and the massive pinnacles give way to boulder fields. The kelp bed also thickens up as you move inshore. There is an enormous growth of giant kelp in deeper water, with feather boa kelp becoming more common in the shallower water.
These rocks are covered with all of the colorful marine life that makes California diving so interesting - carpets of red corynactis anemones, giant green and blood red telia anemones, and yellow and cobalt sponges.
Monkey-faced eels are abundant here but often go unnoticed. Their distorted faces are a bit grotesque but, nonetheless, interesting to photograph. Monkey-faced eels are not true eels but are members of the prickleback family.
Also, not a true eel, wolf eels inhabit Stillwater Cove. These strong-jawed fish feed on sea urchins and shellfish. Wolf eels are far less threatening than their name or appearance would suggest, are very shy, and rarely bother divers.
As one gets nearer Pescadero Rocks the bottom juts up from 40 to 30 feet in a massive wall that runs nearly 100 yards. On the north side of the wall is a float marking the location of an underwater statue. At the base of the wall are a number of shallow caves, ledges and swim throughs. The walls are adorned with encrusting sponges in hues of cobalt red and yellow, and the nooks and crannies of the wall harbor an assortment of photogenic invertebrates.
The shallows seem to lack some of the larger and more spectacular invertebrates that thrive in deeper water, but there's a lot to see if you take your time. It's a good idea to carry a flashlight here, even during the day. That way you can look deep into cracks to see what is hiding from you.
In the shallow water around Pescadero Rocks live an abundance of hermit and decorator crabs. This shallow area is also a great place to observe and photograph nudibranchs. The simple dorids, such as the lemon and Monterey nudibranch, are here in abundance. Just to test your photographic skill there are also more photogenic species. Photos of orange and white clown nudibranchs, gaudy red and white Phidianas and ostentatious Dendronotids will wow your friends. These creatures are intrinsically photogenic, but finding a unique and never-before-tried composition is a real challenge.
Most dive Stillwater from one of Monterey's Charter boats, although small inflatable boats and dive kayaks are easily launched from the pier or beach. The diving right near the pier is not so hot, so some kind of dive vehicle is recommended.
Dive Spot At-A-Glance
Location: Along the 17-mile drive in Pebble Beach.
Access and entry: By boat from Monterey or via the beach near the Pebble Beach Club House.
Skill level: Beginner to advanced.
Depths: 20 to 60 feet.
Visibility: 15 to 40 feet.
Hunting: Carmel Bay is an ecological reserve and no invertebrates including rock scallops may be taken. Abalone may not be taken south of San Francisco. Spearfishing is allowed, but there are not many fish worth shooting in this area.
Photography: Good macro photography for nudibranchs and other invertebrates as well as monkey-face and wolf eels, and small fish.
Special rules: Diving from the beach is limited to 10 divers per day, there are six parking spots that must be reserved up to 14 days in advance. There is a loading/unloading area, but incoming traffic is prohibited between the hours of 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. daily. A pier and boat hoist available for recreational craft only, from May 1 through September 30, with a limit of 10 boats per day. Diving, sunbathing, and picnicking are permitted during daylight hours only and only on the beach east of the pier. Spearguns are also prohibited on the beach. Call (831) 625-8507 for reservations and additional information.
Suggested Dive Charter Boats:
Beach Hopper II - (800) 806-2345
Silver Prince - (800) 60-SCUBA
Bruce Watkins is a regular contributor to California Diving
News and hundreds of his articles and photographs have appeared in
various magazines. He is the author of A Diver's Guide to Monterey
County, published by Saint Brendan Corp.