Elk

Between Navarro and Point Arena lies a rugged coastline that is certainly among the most breathtaking spots in the entire state. This area is sculpted with islands and large rocks that create a labyrinth of passageways with caves and arches. Highway 1 winds along high above the beach and often along the edge of a vertical cliff. There is plenty of good diving here, but no trespassing signs and locked gates keep divers from the water. The only public access in the area is at Elk.

Elk was first called Greenwood. During the late 1800s the town grew big enough for a post office, but the name "Greenwood" had already been taken. So they took the name of the next creek south for the post office, and officially it became the Elk Post Office at Greenwood. After a while everyone just called the town Elk.

The town overlooks Greenwood Cove, but due to the outfall from Greenwood Creek the visibility in the cove is often bad and the bottom sandy. Divers will, however, find excellent diving north and south of the main cove. South of Greenwood is a pretty area to dive. Near shore the bottom remains at 10 to 15 feet for some distance before it drops to 25 to 30 feet. The bottom is sand with huge rocks sprinkled about. This is a good place for hunting abalone, and larger abalone are found in deeper water. This is also a good place to take beginner abalone hunters if they can handle the hike down the cliff.

Offshore of the south end of Greenwood Cove is Nose Rock. The water surrounding the rock is 60 feet deep and is a great place to hunt for rockfish and lingcod. Big abalone, metridium and telia anemones are everywhere. Around the rock and the raised, shallow area in the lee of the rock are plentiful abalone in 15 to 20 feet of water.

At the North end of Greenwood Cove is Cuffeys Cove. The bottom here is rocky with steep-sided walls and huge boulders. This area has more and bigger abalone than anywhere in the state. Abalone here are thick and many are between 9 3/4 and 10 inches, although we found none over 10 inches.

Marine life here is impressive with large, black rockfish, greenlings and perch. This is also an excellent area for spearfishing for lingcod, and red and blue rockfish. The area supports a thick growth of palm and bull kelp, particularly in summer, and has colorful invertebrates hiding underneath the kelp canopy.

Rocky bluffs under the Cuffeys Cove Cemetery are riddled with caves and tunnels. This is a great place to bring your kayak and explore the beautiful coastline. A 20-foot tall cathedral-sized chamber is located under the western edge of the Cuffeys Cove Cemetery. Four separate tunnels lead to this main chamber. There are numerous and equally spectacular arches and caves near-by.

Dive Spot At - A - Glance

Location: In Mendocino County 6 miles south of Navarro and 19 miles north of Point Arena.

Access and Entry: Public access is very limited in the Elk area. There is free, public parking directly across from the Elk Store on the west side of Hwy. 1. A trail leads to the ocean and splits. The trial to the left (south) goes past an outhouse and gradually descends to the beach where another outhouse is located. This is a good spot to launch dive kayaks to explore sites north and south of the cove. Vehicles are not permitted on the beach, so boat launching is not possible.

The trail north from the parking lot winds behind the old Elk Post Office, over the bluff, to a point, and down to the water. This descent is dangerous and the locals have left a rope in place to aid divers and other beach-goers.

Another access point is just south of town at a turnout bordered by mile markers MEN 33.17 and 33.07. There is ample parking and a very steep and dangerous trail to the beach. Locals have left a rope in place here as well.

Depths: 10 to 60 feet.

Visibility: Good, 15 to 40 feet.

Skill level: Beginner through advanced; divers must be in good physical shape for the climb to and from the beach.

Hunting: Great hunting for big abalone, good spearfishing for lingcod and rockfish.

Photography: Good macro , good wide-angle shots when visibility is good.

Hazards: Watch for big waves and surge. Expect to climb down a steep and dangerous cliff. You may want to bring a rope in case permanent ones have vanished.

Bruce Watkins is a frequent contributor to California Diving News and author of the soon to be published book A Diver's Guide to Northern California