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Film Selection Essentials

Perhaps one of the most confusing choices to the new underwater photographer is what film to use. This article is meant as a primer for those just getting into underwater photography and what film they should drop into their camera to get the results they want.

SLIDES OR PRINTS?
There are two basic kinds of film: slide and print film. Print film is the most commonly used by consumers and gives you "negative" film with funny looking colors from which the lab operator makes color prints. This kind of film has a great deal of "latitude" or forgiveness of poor exposure (because the lab operator can compensate while making prints) but is generally not sharp, nor does it carry a great deal of color saturation. The processing is referred to as C-41 which is used by most 1-hour photo processors, drug stores and the like. Most films of this type end their name with "color" (Kodacolor, Fujicolor, etc.).

Professionals and serious amateurs usually prefer slide film. This produces a positive image on the film itself that can then be projected, electronically scanned or also printed. While less forgiving on exposure, it is sharper with a wider range of color and deeper color saturation. Slide film names generally end with "chrome" such as Kodachrome and Fujichrome.

There are two major types of slide films. Most prevalent is the E-6 films (named for the E-6 processing). Although not as accessible as the color print processing, E-6 slide processing is easily available because of its relative simplicity. (Many live-aboard dive boats will process E-6 films on board while you wait.) K-14 films (Kodachrome) involves a lengthy, carefully controlled process that must be done in a lab. Kodachrome films have a better image quality but the gap between E-6 films and Kodachrome films has narrowed considerably in the last few years.

FILM SPEED
A film's speed rating (ISO, formerly ASA) refers to how much light it takes to expose the film properly. The lower the amount of light, the faster the speed film you'll need. Because it's darker underwater you'll need a higher speed film, but don't go crazy, there is a trade-off. The higher speed the film, the poorer the image quality. Also, there is no need for a high speed film for close-up underwater photography; 50 to 100 speed is fine. For wide-angle, California underwater photography, a 200 speed film is good.

MISC. FILM TIPS
All film "spoils" with time and heat. Seal up your film in a plastic bag and store it in the refrigerator for maximum life. Make sure to take the film out at least an hour ahead of use to allow it to warm up.

Processing can, unfortunately, vary considerably from lab to lab. Try several until you find one you like, then stick with them.

WHAT ABOUT "ELECTRONIC FILM"?
While digital cameras are now all the rage, they still cannot compare in resolution to good old film. Photographic film records the image on a molecular level, something even the best digital cameras still cannot do. While digital cameras are sure to get better and cheaper, I'll stick with film.

WHICH FILM SHOULD YOU USE?
Ultimately, what will you do with the pictures? If you only go on short dive trips and you'll be putting small prints into an album, color print film is adequate. Print film is a bit more economical, if that is a consideration.

But if you're going to be submitting photos for publication or to a contest or enlarging the pictures to prints beyond a 5 X 7, slide film is the way to go. The sharpness will shine and colors will glow. With the availability of E-6 processing on some dive boats, consider the use of E-6 slide film so you can see the results of your photographic talents, or lack thereof, the same day.

Dale Sheckler is editor of California Diving News, coauthor of the book Southern California's Best Beach Dives, and producer of the largest consumer dive expo in the western U.S., SCUBA Show 2000, June 3 & 4 at the Long Beach Convention Center.