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Few underwater attractions draw divers with the magnetism of
underwater caves. These passageways from the world of light into a
world of darkness seem to satisfy some innate need to explore and to
discover what lies around the corner. Like the sirens of ancient
Greece they beckon divers to enter their mouths and explore their
winding passages.
Also, like the sirens, caves can be a dangerous place. While diving in an overhead environment requires training beyond an openwater course, not all caves are created equal from a safety standpoint. There are "caves" that are reasonably safe, even for relative beginners.
Training agencies call these "caverns." This classification arises when the cavern is in shallow water, has a short penetration distance, has generally good visibility, and daylight may always be seen everywhere in the cave. Training agencies do not normally require the same level of training and equipment to enter a cavern as a cave.
Central and North Coast divers are fortunate to have numerous caverns to explore. Arena Rock in Mendocino County and Point Lobos are two that come to mind. Captain Tim Doreck of the Monterey Express recently showed me a cavern and a swim through near Pescadero Point that were a lot of fun to explore.
Tim calls his caverns "The Cathedrals." These are located on the south side of Pescadero Point near Fire Rock. There are two "cathedrals," one is a long narrow canyon that is closed on the top for part of its length, and the other is more of a swim-through or arch.
The easiest way to find the cavern is to anchor on the south side of Fire Rock. Head south from the anchorage until the rock reef drops steeply to the sand bottom at about 75 feet. Keep the reef to your left until you come to a deep "V" cut in the wall. Follow the "V." The bottom rises up slightly and then drops into the cavern.
The cavern is about 40 feet long and is more of a steep-sided canyon rather than a cave for most of its length. In the center the cavern does close over itself to form a true overhead environment, but divers can always see daylight from both entrances at all times. The rock forms a giant corridor and both ends open upward. Depth at the bottom of the cavern is about 75 feet and the top is 60 to 56 feet.
To find the arch head back to the deep water entrance to the cavern and again keep the reef on your left. Continue along the reef and head into the relatively flat rocky/sandy area. The entrance of the arch is about 60 feet deep. You swim through a tunnel that begins along the sand bottom and pop up on the rocky reef in about 50 feet. The height and length of the arch is about five feet. In summer you can find the arch by anchoring in the clear spot in the kelp bed south of Fire Rock, and swimming along the wall to your left.
After you have explored the caverns take some time to look around at the marine life. There are numerous fish for fish watchers and photographers, including lingcod, rockfish, and greenlings. The walls are dotted with some the largest telia anemones I have seen, and the rocks are covered with colorful sponges and coraline algae. A thick bed of giant kelp covers the area in summer and fall.
Dive
Spot At-A-GlanceLocation: On the south of Fire Rock, Pescadero Point, Carmel Bay.
Access: Boat only. Boats may be launched from Stillwater Cove, call 831-625-8536 for reservations, or Monterey Breakwater. Monterey's charter dive boats frequent this spot. GPS: 36° 33.557' N, 121° 57.078' W (GPS for reference only. Do not use as your sole source of navigation).
Skill Level: Beginner or better.
Depths: 40 to 90 feet.
Visibility: Good, 25 to 40 feet.
Photography: Great wide-angle photos of caves and reef scenes. Good macro photography of invertebrates.
Hunting: This site is within the Carmel Bay Ecological Reserve and no invertebrates may be taken. There are few fin fish worth spearing.
Hazards: Watch for swell and surge. Overhead environments
are dangerous places for divers. Enter only if you have proper
training and equipment. Take some time and ask questions to determine
if your "hole in the reef" is a cave or cavern.
Bruce Watkins is a regular contributor to California Diving News and hundreds of his articles and photographs have appeared in various magazines. He is the author of A Diver's Guide to Monterey County, published by Saint Brendan Corp.